The potato, like the tomato and the chili pepper, is a New World crop. It was unknown to Europeans until the conquistadors found it in the Andes and sailed back with it in the sixteenth century. Potato cultivation spread quickly, with the starchy tuber proving so useful in the kitchen that it became essential to several national cuisines. Potatoes were boiled in Ireland, mashed in England, and fried in the Low Countries. Perhaps they even figured in murders, since the potato is a member of the nightshade family. Like all nightshades, it contains deadly toxins, mostly in its leaves and fruit. The tuber—the part we eat—ordinarily contains low concentrations of the poison, which is readily recognized by its bitter flavor.
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